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We were sitting on the beach at M’Phai Bay when someone at our guesthouse mentioned it: there was another beach on the other side of the jungle, and almost nobody went there. No boats. No beach clubs. No vendors walking up and down the sand. Just a bay you had to walk to through the forest, which meant anyone who made it there had earned it.
That beach is Clear Water Bay on Koh Rong Sanloem — and it lives up to every version of its name. The water is the kind of colour you normally only see in edited travel photos. It’s one of the best-kept secrets on an island that’s itself still relatively uncrowded compared to the rest of Southeast Asia.
Getting there takes about one and a half hours of walking from M’Phai Bay, through jungle and along the coast. It’s not difficult, but the path isn’t obvious. Here’s exactly how to do it.
Key Takeaways
- Clear Water Bay is on the north of Koh Rong Sanloem, Cambodia — not to be confused with Clear Water Bay in Hong Kong
- The hike from M’Phai Bay takes around 1.5 hours and covers about 5km one-way; half on beach, half through jungle
- Wear proper shoes — not flip flops — for the rocky jungle section
- Bring at least 1.5 litres of water and snacks; there is nothing available at Clear Water Bay
- The Ecolodge at the south end of M’Phai Bay is your last food and drink stop before the hike
- Collect a bag of garbage on the way back and get a free beer at Koh Rong Samloem Eco Retreat
- Best visited in dry season (November–May); the path becomes very difficult in monsoon months
What is Clear Water Bay on Koh Rong Sanloem?
Clear Water Bay is a small, isolated beach at the northern tip of Koh Rong Sanloem, the second-largest island in Cambodia’s Sihanoukville Province. It’s within — no, wait, that’s the Hong Kong version. Koh Rong Sanloem’s Clear Water Bay has no park designation and no visitor facilities. It has one hostel that appeared to have been closed for some time when we visited, clear turquoise water, white sand, and jungle coming down to the shore on both sides.
Because there’s no boat service that goes directly there and no road access, the only way in is on foot from M’Phai Bay (also written as M’Pai Bay) — a walk of around 5km through a mix of beach and forest. This means Clear Water Bay sees a fraction of the visitors that the main beaches on Koh Rong Sanloem attract. If you’re staying at M’Phai Bay and you have a free day and a reasonable pair of shoes, this hike is the best thing you can do with it.
How to get to Koh Rong Sanloem from Sihanoukville
If you’re still planning your trip and haven’t arrived on the island yet: ferries to Koh Rong Sanloem depart from the port in Sihanoukville, and the crossing takes around 45 minutes. Multiple companies operate the route, and boats run several times a day in the dry season. Tickets cost around $10–15 each way depending on the operator and whether you book in advance.
Most ferries drop passengers at Saracen Bay (the island’s main beach) or at M’Phai Bay directly. If you’re doing this hike, you want to be based at M’Phai Bay — it’s quieter, cheaper, and the starting point for the trail. For accommodation options, see the guide on where to stay and eat on Koh Rong Sanloem.
If you’d rather skip the DIY ferry booking, a full-day Koh Rong Sanloem beach tour from Sihanoukville covers transport plus BBQ lunch. If you’re coming from Phnom Penh, a transfer service from Phnom Penh to Koh Rong Sanloem covers the bus and the boat in one booking.
One practical note: there are no ATMs on Koh Rong Sanloem. Read the guide to getting cash on Koh Rong before you go, and bring enough USD to cover your stay and any activities.
How to get to Clear Water Bay from M’Phai Bay: step by step
The hike from M’Phai Bay to Clear Water Bay takes about 1 hour 30 minutes at a relaxed pace. The first half is straightforward beach walking; the second half follows a jungle path close to the coast. Here’s the route:
1. Walk to the south end of M’Phai Bay
Start from wherever you’re staying and walk all the way to the southern end of the beach. You’ll pass the pier and then the Ecolodge. Keep going past both — the Ecolodge is the last food and drink stop before Clear Water Bay, so pick up anything you need here: water, snacks, or a quick breakfast if you’re heading out early. When we visited, the Driftwood hostel at Clear Water Bay looked like it had been closed for some time, so don’t count on anything being available at the destination.
2. Find the path at the end of the beach
Once you’re at the very end of the sand, there will be a small path leading into the vegetation. It’s not immediately obvious — you might have to look for it. The key visual cue is a bright blue water pipe running along the ground, which follows the coast. Don’t veer away from the sea. The path runs close to the shoreline throughout and you should be able to hear the water for most of the route.
3. Follow the coastal path for 30 minutes
Once you’ve found the path, it’s relatively simple: follow it for about 30 minutes. It runs parallel to the shore, stays mostly flat, and doesn’t branch. There are no turns and no significant elevation changes. The jungle is dense but there’s usually a clear track. This is the section where you want actual shoes — the ground is rocky in places and there are roots across the path. Flip flops are manageable but genuinely uncomfortable and increase your risk of slipping.
4. Cross the dirt road section
After about 30 minutes on the jungle path, it stops abruptly at a dirt road that someone has built through the area. Follow this road for a few hundred metres — there’s only one direction that makes sense. When you see the path continuing on your left, take it. You’re now 10–15 minutes from Clear Water Bay.
5. Arrive at Clear Water Bay
The path opens out onto the beach. First impression: the water. It’s genuinely clear in a way that’s rare even in Southeast Asia, with a pale turquoise colour that shifts to deep blue further out. The bay is sheltered, quiet, and — on the days we were there — essentially empty. There’s no food, no shade infrastructure, no boats. Just the beach.
There’s no official map of this route on Google Maps. We’ve sketched one to give you a sense of the path layout — see the image below.
What to bring on the hike
This is a real jungle trail in a tropical climate. Don’t underestimate it:
- Water — bring at least 1.5 litres per person. There is nothing available at Clear Water Bay, and the walk back in the midday heat is dehydrating. Start early if you can.
- Snacks — the hike takes 3+ hours return. Bring something substantial.
- Shoes — trainers or trail shoes. Flip flops will work in a pinch but you’ll regret them on the rocky sections and any wet patches. The jungle section is much easier with a closed shoe.
- Sunscreen — the beach sections have no shade.
- Insect repellent — the jungle sections have mosquitoes, especially in the morning.
- Cash — not that there’s anything to spend it on, but keep your emergency cash dry in a zip-lock bag.
- A bag for rubbish — see below.
When to go
Koh Rong Sanloem’s dry season runs from roughly November to May. This is the best time to do this hike: the path is clear, the beaches are at their best, and the visibility in the water is at its highest. November to February is the coolest and least humid part of the dry season — the most comfortable for walking.
Avoid the monsoon months (June–October). Heavy rain makes the jungle section of this trail very slippery, the path can become overgrown, and the bay itself is often rough. In October — the worst month — the whole hike becomes genuinely risky.
For a wider view of things to do on Koh Rong Sanloem, including when the bioluminescent plankton season peaks and which beaches suit different activity types, see the full island guide.
What to do when you get there
Swim. The water at Clear Water Bay is calm, clear, and usually warmer than you’d expect. There are no strong currents in the sheltered part of the bay. The visibility underwater is good enough for basic snorkelling in Cambodia — bring a mask and fins if you have them (lightweight, worth it). The rocky edges of the bay are the most interesting areas for marine life.
Beyond that: rest. This is a beach with nothing on it, which is exactly the point. Bring a book. Lie in the shade at the jungle edge. Don’t rush the return — the walk back takes the same 1.5 hours, and it’s much worse in the dark.
The eco angle: collect trash, earn a beer
This is our favourite thing about the Koh Rong Sanloem beach community, and we’d encourage every visitor to participate.
On the walk back to M’Phai Bay — when you’ve got your beach euphoria working for you and you’re feeling good about the world — pick up plastic and rubbish that the tide has left on the shore. Plastic bags, bottles, packaging: the amount varies depending on recent currents, but there’s almost always something.
When you return to Koh Rong Samloem Eco Retreat (formerly Koh Rong Samloem Villas), hand over each bag of garbage you’ve collected and they’ll give you a free beer per bag. It’s a small, perfect incentive that’s been running for years. You get a cold beer at the end of a hot walk. The beach gets a little cleaner. It costs you five minutes of your time. Do it.
Frequently asked questions
What is the nicest beach on Koh Rong Sanloem?
It depends what you’re after. Saracen Bay is the most beautiful and most accessible — long, white sand, calm water, and a good range of accommodation along the shore. M’Phai Bay is quieter with a stronger budget backpacker community and better sunsets. Clear Water Bay is the most isolated and has the most striking water colour of the three — but you have to earn it with a 1.5-hour walk. Most visitors rank Clear Water Bay as the most spectacular once they’ve made the trip.
Which is better, Koh Rong or Koh Rong Sanloem?
They’re quite different. Koh Rong is larger, more developed, and has a party scene centred around Long Beach and Koh Touch village. Koh Rong Sanloem is smaller, quieter, and more suited to travellers who want to slow down — better snorkelling, no nightlife to speak of, and beaches that are noticeably less crowded. If you want nightlife and social hostels: Koh Rong. If you want the Clear Water Bay hike and bioluminescent plankton swims at night: Koh Rong Sanloem.
Can you swim at Clear Water Bay on Koh Rong Sanloem?
Yes — the bay is sheltered and the swimming is good in dry season. The water is calm inside the bay. Snorkelling is particularly rewarding near the rocky edges. Avoid swimming in the monsoon months when swells can make conditions unpredictable.
Is there anywhere to eat or stay at Clear Water Bay?
When we visited, there was a hostel/bar called Driftwood at Clear Water Bay that appeared to have been closed for some time. As of 2026, we haven’t been able to confirm whether it’s reopened. Do not count on any food, drink, or accommodation being available at Clear Water Bay — treat it as a day trip destination and bring everything you need from M’Phai Bay.
How difficult is the hike from M’Phai Bay to Clear Water Bay?
It’s moderate — not technically demanding, but 5km of tropical hiking each way in heat and humidity. The beach sections are easy. The jungle sections have some rocky and rooted ground but no real climbing. The main challenges are heat, humidity, and the risk of dehydration if you haven’t brought enough water. Anyone in reasonable fitness can do it. Start early (before 9am if possible) to avoid the worst of the midday heat, and wear proper shoes.
